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NOTE: A prerequisite to talk about "brooming" is the proper terminology. There is an unlimited supply of confusion out there as to locating where the dust is on your sensor as compared to where it appears in your images. In other words, if the dust is in the upper right of a photograph, where exactly is it sitting on your sensor? I want you to forget all about putting names and locations on your sensor as you are in the shooting position. It will make this orientation much, much easier to understand.
#1) The image you see on your computer monitor will have four corners we will refer to as upper left; lower left; upper right; and lower right. Pretty easy so far, right?
#2) When you raise the mirror and remove the lens from your D-SLR, you will be looking into the camera's chamber with the sensor affixed to the back wall. FROM THIS VANTAGE POINT, the sensor will have corners refered to as upper left; lower left; upper right; and lower right. I don't care what names these points were called before you rotated the camera the 180° to look into the chamber - it's irrelevant. What is of primary importance is that you realize what "as you look at it" means. It means "as you look at it", or, "from your own perspective", NOT from the position the sensor had while you were in the shooting position behind the camera. If you follow the directions that follow with these points in mind, you will be able to locate the exact position of the dust on your sensor. I promise. Example: The dust-bunny that is in the upper right of this image is sitting on the lower right of the sensor as you look into the chamber.
Please read this brief thread on this topic:http://www.nikonians.org/dcforum/DCForumID71/16121.html
If you get to the point where you've done everything contained in this tutorial to get rid of your dust, and you're left with one or two specks that act like "kryptonite", you might want to try "brooming" the sensor.
First, determine exactly where the speck(s) is located by using the "up/down" or "one vertical flip" alignment. This means that if your speck is in the upper left of your image, it is actually sitting on the lower left of your sensor AS YOU LOOK AT IT from the front of the camera. Similarly, if it's in the lower right of your image, it's actually sitting on the upper right of your sensor AS YOU LOOK AT IT. Upper center of the image, lower center of the sensor, etc., etc. One vertical flip.
Next, prepare your camera and SensorSwipe in the usual swabbing manner. Remove the lens, then place one drop of Eclipse on one corner of the PecPad. Start swabbing just in the area you determined in the previous step, using only the moistened corner of the pad. Go back and forth here several times (3, 4 or 5). What this does is to concentrate your force right where that little rascule has taken up residence.
Now prepare another SensorSwipe and do a normal swabbing as shown in this tutorial. This is necessary because the brooming will probably move the dust to another area of the sensor.
Check your results and have another stiff drink.
This would probably be considered an advanced tip, only to be attempted after you've acquired quite a bit of experience and a normal blood pressure reading.
Because of the focused pressure, I strongly recommend starting with a light to moderate force with your swab. I think the *most* pressure I've used brooming would be maybe equal to rubbing with a pencil's eraser. Again, this method should only be used as a last-ditch effort when all else hasn't worked.
If brooming STILL doesn't dislodge the speck(s), it's definitely time to send the camera in for servicing.
Congratulations are in order for working your way through this entire tutorial, we hope you enjoyed your stay. As a token of our appreciation of the time you spent here, here are a few awesome interactive screensavers courtesy of nVidia followed by some of our favorite websites. If you have an nVidia GeForce card, you will love these screensavers. If you don't, you can get a sampling of these by downloading the MPG demo-videos.They are all awesome.
Here are some photography/graphic arts websites we'd like to recommend:
• Bob Johnson is one of our favorite landscape photographers. His images of the Pacific northwest are incredible to say the least, and his site is loaded with great tips on digital photography.
• Yves is one of the most talented landscape photographers around. I can only hope to one day have his artist's eye and impeccable technique:
• http://www.ronbigelow.com Ron's site has a wealth of Photoshop info, his article about sharpening is worth the visit alone
• http://www.andyrouse.co.uk/index.asp Widlife photographer extaodinaire
• http://www.dianevarner.com/ Diane is a photographer who has developed a beautiful Photoshop technique that she shares here.
• http://www.jonathanyuen.com/main.html Jonathan is a super talented graphic artist; use your mouse to navigate.
PHOTOSHOP STUFF These are some of our favorite actions, plug-ins and stand-alones, most of them have free demos. We upgraded to CS4 as soon as it came out, and it is a huge improvement over CS3. ACR is getting better and better with each update. With all of the eye-popping technical achievements of the following software, it is still our goal to nail the photo the moment the shutter button is pressed and have it excel with the minimum of PP.
1) http://www.alienskin.com We use the Eye Candy Bundle
2) http://www.autofx.com We use AutoFX Mystical Lighting and Dreamsuite
3) http://www.ononesoftware.com You can't beat Genuine Fractals for uprezzing
4) http://www.niksoftware.com/products/usa/entry.php NIK Color Efex is not cheap, but, damn, the filters are awesome
5) http://www.fredmiranda.com/shopping/IS This is a great, reasonably priced sharpening program
6) http://www.flamingpear.com/ You'll be amazed by these plug-ins
7) http://www.graphic-design.com/news/2007/harrys_filters.html More cool stuff
8) http://www.redfieldplugins.com/ You'll have a lot of fun with these
9) http://www.reindeergraphics.com/ Optipix 3.1, one of their plug-ins is a great "find edges" filter
10) http://www.optikvervelabs.com/ Virtual Photographer plug-in
11) http://www.richardrosenman.com/software/
12) http://www.cybia.co.uk/
13) http://browse.deviantart.com/?qh=§ion=&q=actions Here are some great actions, but browse this entire site to see some terrific digital art and digital photography.
14) http://www.chainstyle.com/ Great stuff by Robert Anselmi
15) http://www.panosfx.com/
16) http://www.softlist.net/program/amphisoft_photo_sharpen-software.html This is a free sharpening program that I think is equal in quality to a lot of purchased programs.
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